Wednesday 23 July 2008

Gemstone buying trip to India

My mates thinks I’m brave and my parents think I’m crazy, but India is where I’m heading and it’s definitely where it’s at. Gemstone buying that is, in search of the next big thing for next season’s jewellery collection.

As a designer/maker with my own label, I travel each year to far and distant destinations, all by my lonesome, in search of interesting materials to use in my designs, like shells & Corals from Hawaii, Turquoise from Arizona, Pearls from China, and Murano Glass from Venice. This time, my customers have requested I jot down an insider’s guide to gemstone buying in India, the coloured gemstone capital of the world....
Stepping from the comfort of the hygienic, air conditioned aeroplane and onto the steamy tarmac runway laden with cabin baggage and coat tied around waste, I’m instantly smacked with the heat, humidity and smell that is India.

The road traffic in India is like a D Grade symphony using their car horns as instruments! But if you can ignore the total disregard for rules, it’s quite mesmerick to watch how travellers duck and dive and wonder why the government ever bothered painting dotted lines for lane control. It takes your breath away watching whole families balancing on a single motor bike as they weave through chaotic traffic conditions. A child just old enough to stand is at the helm holding onto the handle bars whilst the father, seated and driving, wears the only legally required helmet (for safety of course) and the mother sits side-saddle at the rear clutching her baby precariously dangling under one arm, whilst the other arm is rapped around the husband’s skinny waist! It really is as crazy as it sounds, and is something I never get used to seeing, as I hope to god I don’t came across any human, or for that matter cow road kill during the journey.
Pictured left: Emerald & Ruby Graduated Rhondell beads.
Yet, if you can ignore the constant mess, litter, dust and wondering cows, you can stumble across the most amazing jewels of architecture and indeed workmanship in all aspects of industries, which rivals some of the best artisans in history. Perhaps this is the reason India is one of the fastest growing economies in the world, and not just because of cost effective labour alone? They don’t copy like the Chinese are known to do, rather, they have their own identity, albeit a little fussy for my liking, particularly in jewellery, it’s ultra intricate and well, show-stopping. For instance, in my opinion India gave us the true meaning of chandelier earrings, and my goodness they are amazing. If you like a bunch of very posh grapes draping from your lobes, you won’t go further than 20 G’s of tiny faceted pink sapphire teardrops (briolettes) crafted with superfine gold wire to provide perfect movement and sparkle in 3D form like a Christmas tree, and oh yes, you will sparkle. Always in vogue on the red carpet, with thanks to Boucheron, but probably a third of the price!

India is renowned as the Gem capital of the world for good reason, they simply love colour and lots of it in their jewellery designs. Wherever you visit in the country, you will see some of the most exquisite jewellery in an astounding variety of colours. Their high streets have been graced with some of the world’s most famous jewellery designers, like Pippa Small, which is hard to believe when you see the way in which they do business, cross-legged on the floor! The main streets are peppered with jewellery and gem shops, but if you can brave the back streets, check out the shoebox sized shops where you will see colourful gems scattered all over their well-scratched glass counter tops, selling, sorting, and of course, crafting. Brokers bustle from shop to shop carrying large quantities of precious gems in old canvas bags, which in most countries would require an armoured security van and major CCTV coverage.
Picture:back streets where shops are located, and cattle rome!
But trade shopping in India is not for the faint-hearted especially if you don’t like overwhelming smells, lackadaisical hygiene standards and rodents! Whilst Indian’s are often tarnished with being untrustworthy, it’s surprising to find they are often genuinely good, honourable people, like my supplier Daya (pictured). However, whilst they do take pride in their work, they unfortunately also have a relaxed work ethic that “near enough is good enough” so it’s difficult to get exactly what you want, and is often where mistakes occur. If, however, you return for more business the next year, you will certainly earn their respect as a genuine buyer, when you can be a little more demanding and they will be more eager to please.

The first time a met my supplier, he diligently organised my accommodation, picked me up at the airport and everyday collected me from the hotel to take me into his shop, which was very reliable indeed. Whether big or small in business, Indian traders appreciate all business and there is no snobbery which is astonishing given the nature of the industry. I know my supplier also supplies well known design houses like Bulgari so I can get my hands on anything from rough cut diamonds to 10 carat Marquises cuts and of course in any quality to suit any budget. This time I managed to invest in some cherry sized coloured gems for some of my private customers, like the 22 carat Oval AAA Grade Orange Citine which throws red flecks set in a pendant designed to float on fine gold chain.
Pictured: One of my reliable gemstone suppliers, Daya.
As for the gems, which is ultimately what I’m there for, it’s like going into a sweetie shop brimming with a multitude of choice, but without the calories. The variety is so enticing, it really is so easy to get carried away, but it’s important to keep track and stick to a budget, although I always tend to break them as I usually see a “must have” string of London Blue Topaz at the last minute. Usually colour is my first approach, followed by cut and clarity. Of course, my style of jewellery doesn’t require triple A grade gems, but I always look for the best I can get with my budget.

Like all designers, I keep my ear to the ground for new cuts, like last year for instance saw the introduction of B Grade diamonds cut into tiny beads. Whilst this trend has yet to really take off in Britain, I bought a selection of colours not yet seen in trade and had them exclusively cut into cubes for that delicate twinkle that only a diamond can give. I handwire them on a 0.3mm wire and mix them up with either chain or pearls. The current trend also favours huge and very colourful gemstones, which are obviously much cheaper than the traditional white diamond, and in my opinion are far more exciting to flash about, like my own recent purchase of a 20.5 Carat Brazilian Blue Amethyst, a deep purple colour that throws flecks of hot pink, cut into a Triangular shape - Divine!
Pictured: AAA Grade Aquamarines in various colours.
When you buy jewellery with gem beads, these are often lower grades to those found in settings and are therefore less expensive. But don’t let this put you off, as they are still extremely sort after and the price reflects this. It’s also important to remember that all gems are precious, as they are a limited commodity, so whilst you may not be able to afford a gem the size of the Star of Africa, always look for colour, cut, clarity, origin and availability before determining the size (carat weight) so you get the most for your money.

What also amazes me, is the different gemstones and cuts that greet the market every year and it's such a delight to get my hands on the new and unusual. Whilst the hardness of a gemstone reflects the price, so too does rarity. A clear example is Turquoise from the Arizona mines like Kinman and Sleeping Beauty are fast drying up and so the stone is now far more expensive and sort after. Also origin plays a part as turquoise from China is less sort after due to it's availability, often deep marbling and different colour. It goes without saying, when a natural commodity becomes extinct, it also becomes more sort after, more expensive, and is therefore a future investment.
Pictured: The hotel I stay in was once a palace
What strikes me most is how happy Indian people are, even living in what I would term as poor conditions. A large proportion of the population are Hindu and they don’t believe in killing any living thing, including those pesky and disease-ridden mozzies! They are a very peaceful society plagued with famine, natural disasters and even terrorism, second to Iraq they suffer the most amount of terrorist attacks in the world! Yet they illuminate happiness, even as they live on the street, irrespective of their disorganised chaotic lifestyle, they never rush, (which is often frustrating as I run for my flight) it’s also an endearing attribute and perhaps the main reason I love to visit there. They are very religious, often visiting their temples 2-3 times daily and I believe it’s their faith that gives them this content state of mind. It’s inspiring and it certainly shames my stressed out, rushed existence. I only wish they could bottle it and sell it! Believe me, if they could, they certainly would.

India is definitely an adventure well worth exploring, like a gem, there are so many facets to the country and I would recommend it to anyone. My travel tips are simple by effective:
1). Do your homework. It’s worth finding out pitfalls that may tarnish your trip like fraudsters etc so get the facts from official tourism websites. It’s worth remembering the age old rule, don’t talk to strangers!
2). If you don’t want to get sick, stick to simple rules like; avoid eating raw vegetables as they have been washed in water; make sure your meat is thoroughly cooked; avoid eating at street stalls; drink only bottled water including when brushing your teeth and check the seal isn't broken; if drinking from a can, use a straw.
Whilst I always encourage travellers to adopt a “when in Rome” approach by eating the local cuisine, ask your concierge to recommend a restaurant even if your on a budget. If in doubt, just ask yourself if your budget will stretch to a week worth of hospital Bills and a memory you would never forget but would love to!
Good coffee is hard to find in India so if you’re like me and relish a morning cuppa, pick a “quality” hotel and enjoy it with a good breakfast before venturing out. And if you like your herbal teas, bring your own! It may be one of the tea capitals of the world, but they usually only offer basic Indian brews.
Pictured: The artworks are colourful & fine in detail like this Mughal style painting.
If you don’t fancy the prospect of contracting Malaria, avoid the monsoon season when mozzies are at their peak, slap on a good insect repellent before sundown and steer clear of stagnant water areas. Obviously precautions are better than cure so consult you’re Doctor well in advance of your trip as tablets need to be taken weeks before for full coverage.

Coming to the end of my buying trip, I contemplate my purchases and start to play with designs to incorporate my newest additions. As I sip my long cool G&T on the front terrace of my palatial hotel, I am ogling a pair of solid marble elephant sculptures, one on either side of the front steps, seated and saddled at the ready for another hard days work and shimmering in the sunlight, and I wonder how much they would be and how I can ship them home. But then I’m slapped with the realisation that my husband would kill me, followed by the obvious question of where I’m going to put them! It’s amazing treasures like marble elephant sculptures you see every minute, if you open your eyes, and reminds me that’s what traveling to old worlds like India is all about.

Melinda xx

Saturday 19 July 2008

Wax lyrical - To blog, or not to blog

I was thinking about this strangely enchanting world of blog. There is so much to read about, it's mind blowing. And the idea of being able to type all your thoughts into this space has become, well, addictive.
Like last night, when i was in the zone again and started to play with words, in bed (whoppee). So i thought that it might be fun to perhaps have a regular "blog lyrical" if you like.
Now it's based on famous quotes, in music, films and perhaps the odd philosophy, so here's the start:

"Blogs away...." The Dam busters (Dad would love this one)
"We will, we will, BLOG YOU" - Queen
"By blogs, she's got it" - My fair Lady
"Your only supposed to blow the bloody blogs off" - The Italian Job
"She must be a blogger" - Sean Connery as James Bond
"To blog, or not to blog, that is the question?" Shakespeare
"How does that work? You go to bed one night, wake up the next morning, and poof - you're a blogger?" - Carrie Bradshaw: Sex and the City
"My momma always said life was like a log of blogs…you never know what you're gonna get!" - Forrest Gump
"Just blogging is not enough, one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower" - Hans Christian Anderson
"Life's a bitch and then you blog" - Nasir Jones
"Like a virgin, blogged for the very first time" - madonna

he, hee, heee..... and this is only just the start....

Friday 18 July 2008

Thought for the month

The BUTTERFLY of FREEDOM

"Why do you fly outside the box?"
"I fly outside the box because I can."
"But we know the box. We are SAFE inside the box."
"That, my friend, is why I leave it. For YOU may be SAFE....

..... but I AM FREE!"

This philosophical quotation is the musings in art form by artist Edward Monkton. Available as hand pulled silkscreen limited editions from various galleries.

Thursday 17 July 2008

Charity of Choice

It's so easy to choose a Charity on the based of what i intend to receive from publicity. I know loads of local Charities that, if supported, will guarantee coverage in the media of some sort and that's how some businesses choose their charity.
There is nothing better than getting all dolled up and hob-knobbing it in your posh dress and black tie, alongside fellow businesswomen/men and high society. You also get to see the fruits of your donation in that the charity and it's representatives will be there to invite you back to the next society ball next year, perhaps with the promise of a celebrity flyby!
However, i'm a little deeper than that and for so long, i have wanted to wholeheartedly help someone somewhere in the world. It's almost as if i've been planning for this moment all my life and i want to make it absolutely perfect. Perhaps i've just been inadvertently programmed by the adverts on tv?
Africa has always pulled on my heartstrings, and even more so after having children. I know there are so many dieing, particularly babies and children, so every little penny counts. However, i also know that sometimes the money that is donated is diluted when it reaches it's destination.
I have tossed and turned over how i can make my support go the furthest and I am yet to decide how it will end. One, most likely thought, is that i will travel there myself loaded with a suitcase full of offerings, alternatively, hand over a wad of cash.
What i do know is that this decision will not be taken lightly and may require imput from further afield. My friends and acquaintances, take note! Cause i will be hitting you hard for ideas, donations and support.
So please do watch this space for my decision, progress and it's effects when i log any progress, soon.

Who's the model?

Oh, let me introduce JoEmma Lavin, she's basically the face of my jewellery. Lovely, isn't she!
She's probably the most perfect person i have ever since in real life. But then i don't get out much. I still wonder if her lips are real, they are amazing. I did try to get the plastic surgeon's number, but she assures me they are really real. Bugger.
We had a great photo shoot that day and she certainly made it look easy. She was extremely professional and experienced, each shot was amazing and she knew just what to do.
Since meeting her last year, we get together for lunch from time to time and she tells me snippets of her celebrity filled life, like her recent trip to Vegas. Though she never boasts, it's just not her.
Actually, she is also girlfriend to Boxer Joe Calzaghe, so she certainly gets out and about, because he has had a phenomenal year in the media (oh and in the ring of course). Though when i interviewed her for the modeling job, and she mentioned his name, i (stock, horror) didn't have a clue who the hell he was. Then again, if i passed him in the street, i still wouldn't have a clue. Shame on me. I am, however, led to believe he is rather dishy!
I am in the process of conjuring up something a bit more artistic for the next photo shoot, which i am hoping JoEmma will do again for me. please, please with cherry on top.
Also, if i get the time and money to put together a launch, as i am working on something in the pipeline, no doubt JoEmma will be there to support me as a friend and jewellery lover. I say with confidence.
If you go onto the website, you will see loads more pictures of JoEmma wearing the jewellery and, as always, looking absolutely gorgeous.

Artistic influences

Apart from my deep affinity with glass, I love the versatility, texture and colour of timber and the warmth it brings to a grey winter's day.
If I were to design my own house, which I dream someday to do, it would have a predominately Balinese influence mixing timber and glass, my two favourite building materials. It's almost a statement of opulence verses nature, with the two working together in harmony.
When travelling, apart from shopping and getting in the sun rays, I love architecture and my favourite Architect, without a doubt is Frank Gehry, designer of the infamous Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.
But have you seen the Science Museum in Valencia by Santiago Calatrava? Bravo!
Then there is the modern classic designer, Arne Jacobsen, architect and creator of various works of art including furniture. My favourite item that i still lust over and desperately want in my living room is an Egg Chair, preferably in Orange (hint, hint). Pictured

Then there is the iconic Barcelona Chair, created by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe for his 1929 German Pavilion at the International Exhibition in Barcelona. Each piece is a tribute to the traditional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Classic, stylish, luxurious.
Phillipe Stark - the famous rocket style juicer
The Mathmos Lava Lamp by Edward Craven Walker - a cult phenomenon
Ron Arad, furniture designer.
Alessi - playful kitchen accessories
Anything Italian
Swiss precision. You've got to admire the quality!

My fashion influences


Some of the greats including Viviene Westwood, Respect! Though i really wish she would use a little bronzing powder to reduce the ghostly white glare from her fine porcelain coloured skin.
Christopher Kane - WOW WOW WOW WOW
Julian MacDonald - Welsh man living in Paris, what's that about?
John Galliano - One of the best designers ever.
Sonia Rykiel - You rock.
Roger Vivier Shoes (pictured here) - Best known to have created the first stiletto heel - though my poor sore feet won't thank him for it.
Louis Vuitton - regardless of their outrageous prices, quintessentially timeless quality.
Roberto Cavalli - feminine & flowing, his clothes are divine. I only wish i was 5 inches taller.
Alexander McQueen - yummy
Valentino - Aaaahhhhh, kkkooooo, ggaaarrrr
Emilio Pucci - i only wish i had his family history.
Missoni - what this girl can do with a thread is breath taking.

How is it men can design so beautifully for women, but there are far fewer women who can design for men? Donna Karan did it, but i can't want to thank her for the bodysuit.
And above all, drum roll....Karen Millen, who, year after year, has brought quality fashionable creations to aspiring middle class women and bridged the enormous gap between inaccessible catwalk and high street. And i have never been disappointed. Hip, hip, hooray

Fashion Accessory or Traditional Jewellery - Can't it be both

It's so strangle how so called "industry professionals" are unable to recognise my "wire" jewellery as traditional as I am not a silversmith. In addition, I have been turned down at various trade fairs within the "Designer Collections" as they don't class me as a designer.
If, however, I show my jewellery to fashion boutiques, they will say it isn't an accessory as I use precious materials. So which jewellery genre does my jewellery fit into? Can't it be both i.e. fashionable jewellery?

It begs the questions, what constitutes a designer? Surely if I create original pieces with a thought process which starts with nothing and ends in an object of beauty, isn't that design?
Lets just look at the history of jewellery, shall we....
According to archaeologists, the first ever signs of jewellery date back 40,000 years, the Cro-Magnons originated from the Middle East, used animal sinew to thread crude necklaces decorated with bones, teeth, and other species including the occasional mother-of-pearl shell.
Following this some 20,000 years later, small cone beads purposely shaped from stone and pierced with holes have been found in archaeological bigs, suggesting the first ever development of the bead. The first sign of precious metal used in fine jewellery comes from some copper jewellery pieces, dating from about 7,000 years ago.
Then the Romans were the first to develop fashionable jewellery with the practical use of brooches to clasp togas together. They also used pearls and glass beads.
So why is it then, my jewellery doesn't fit into traditional jewellery, just because I don't use a blow torch? When in fact, it's conclusive that beaded jewellery is more "traditional" than metalwork.
Whilst I profess to be predominantly self taught as I have dedicated my life's work to learning every day, I have also studied at Central St Martins in London and fully understand and appreciate the metal working process. I have sat with crafters who exclusively create jewellery for royalty, rich and infamous to laboriously perfect my über fine wiring techniques to make 1mm diamond beads into chains with 0.3mm wire. I will always continue to update my skills with regular courses whilst I quietly scrutinize the works of some of the greats.
I simply chose wire work because I can produce a finished piece of jewellery faster than metal smithing which inevitably feeds my apatite to produce more, and like my life, at lightening speed. In addition, and based on the vast designs I have produced to date, I find wire making far more diverse. I thoroughly enjoy the creation process, and with wire, it's just one big long creation, unlike metal working which is a series of different stages, there is no defined stage. Creating jewellery with wire is streamlined and actually quite basic. Within minutes, you can start to see the fruits of your labours, which is perhaps why it's so addictive. It's uncomplicated and, well for me, it just flows.
Finally, regardless of what materials are used and which ever way you cut it, jewellery is still just an accessory!
The picture above is a bracelet from my Limited Editions featuring divine Black Spinel (Garnet) in Ladies Tooth step cut handwired with Sterling Silver.